New movement and transparent dial.
After launching the second-generation Zeitwerk movement with date display two years ago, A. Lange & Söhne has now upgraded the basic model to the same movement-it’s just that it’s not exactly the basic model.
The limited edition Zeitwerk Honey Gold “Lumen” watch reinterprets the 2010 Zeitwerk Phantom, but uses the second-generation movement-which means a longer power reserve and fast set-up time-and the brand’s proprietary 18k Honeygold gold alloy case.
A. Lange & Söhne luxury is undoubtedly launching a second-generation Zeitwerk with a different style. The combination of Honeygold and the colored sapphire dial is amazing-it’s a good-looking watch-and the improved movement removes all the inconveniences of the first-generation caliber.
It was essentially a re-examination of Zeitwerk Phantom, but it didn’t take away anything. Enough time has passed since the Phantom, welcome to come again, and it is sufficiently different from the Honeygold case and the second-generation movement.
I hope the only difference is the red mark on the power reserve indicator. I am not a fan because it jumps out relative to the rest of the dial and adds color to the design that should be monochromatic.
Machinery and metal
The new Zeitwerk has two key features that make it unique. More obvious is the case metal-this is the first Zeitwerk with a honey gold case. It is also the first limited edition of Lumen in metal; previous versions were all platinum, including the 2018 Datograph Lumen.
As a limited edition brand’s favorite metal-including last year’s 175th anniversary “Tribute to FA Lange” trio-honey gold is Lange’s exclusive in the field of watchmaking. In terms of color, it is between rose gold and yellow gold, but it is significantly harder than traditional 18k gold alloys and therefore more wear-resistant.
The Honeygold case is paired with a gray transparent sapphire dial, showing the time dial below.
Like the previous Zeitwerk Phantom, Zeitwerk Lumen’s time display plywood is plated with black rhodium, and the dark gray finish complements the colored sapphire dial. The ordinary Zeitwerk models leave the bridge with a natural silver finish.
Zeitwerk Lumen is equipped with L043.9, which is the second-generation Zeitwerk movement along with Zeitwerk Date’s L043.8
Compared with past Zeitwerk models, Zeitwerk Lumen has a prominent feature: the button at five o’clock. The Zeitwerk Date first appeared on the Zeitwerk Date. It was the first Zeitwerk equipped with a second-generation movement. Its buttons were a quick adjuster for the hour display-the internal movement was a second-generation giveaway. Online cheap watch
Press the button to advance the hour indicator by one hour, without the need to cycle through 60 minutes to advance by one hour, which was the case with the first-generation movement.
Another obvious element that distinguishes the L043.9 in the Zeitwerk Lumen from its predecessor is the straight remontoir bridge on the back.
The bridge is shaped like an anchor and is one of the defining aesthetic features of the Zeitwerk movement. It was awkwardly kinked in the first movement, but is now linear and more slender.
A. Lange & Söhne Zeitwerk Honey Gold “Lumen”
Ref. 142.055
Diameter: 41.9 mm
Height: 12.6 mm
Material: 18k honey gold
Crystal: Sapphire
Waterproof performance: 30 m
Movement: L043.9
Functions: hours, minutes, seconds, power reserve indicator and quick setting hour corrector
Frequency: 18,000 times per hour (2.5 Hz)
Winding: manual winding
Power reserve: 72 hours
Strap: Crocodile leather pin buckle